温活&エステサロンKaju（かじゅ）

108. Onkatsu & Esthetic Salon Kaju, Beppu A spa salon that offers an enzyme bath service using rice bran and onsen water. You need to book in advance on their Japanese website. First visit costs 4400 (then 5500). Stamp available. I brought my own towels — apparently towel rental may cost extra. Looks like a private house with a spa salon inside. Only a woman on staff; English was difficult, but we didn't use translators. You fill out a questionnaire. They pour you rooibos tea. Then you go wash up, put on disposable shorts, and head to the enzyme bath area. The bath has a very strong smell of burnt bread. Breathing is a bit stuffy. Inside there's a dug-out body-shaped pit. They tell you where to put your head and feet. Then they bury your body with a shovel, cover the top of your head and eyes with a cloth, and sprinkle enzymes on that too. The enzymes feel softer and lighter than sand, warm, but hotter near the feet. Then you lie there for about 15 minutes. After a while a woman comes to check on you, gives you rooibos tea through a straw, and tells you how much time is left. I managed the first two-thirds okay, but then it really hit me. The heat from the feet is initially stronger and over time spreads upward — first the shins, then the quads and knees. In the end, about 2 minutes before it was over, I started gradually digging myself out — first the hands, then the head, then the legs. When it's time to get out, you don't shake the enzymes off into the bath — just stand up and carefully step out as you are. It really got to me. Then shower, trying to dry off and unsuccessfully stop sweating. Come out of the shower, they pour strong rooibos, give a snack. Pay and get the stamp, a bit of chatting. Skin afterwards is soft and smooth, smells slightly of bread. I thought given the salon format this enzyme onsen would be a light spa experience, but it turned out to be a full-on serious bathing procedure. Compared to the sand bath at Takegawara — much more intense.