Shinzanso

A pretty cheap ryokan at the far end of Okuhida, but I only have higaeri experience. No matter what time I arrive, they always let me in. It costs a measly 500 yen. The water is clear, technically slightly sulfuric but with no smell or color, with light flakes of mineral deposits. 4 baths cascading down toward the river — two are men-only, one is women-only (with a fence), and from the women's bath there's a descent into the third bath on the men's staircase, making the bottom bath konyoku (mixed). There are no strict rules about clothing — some wear a towel, some a swimsuit, some nothing at all. From the bottom bath you take one step and you're in the river, where there's a sandbar, a natural pool, and it varies from knee-deep to chest-deep, so especially in summer you can swim in the cool water (weak current), and in other seasons use it as a cold bath — though be careful in winter, the water is very cold. From the bottom bath and the river there's a beautiful view of a suspension bridge over the river. In the evening they turn on lights on it and it's incredibly beautiful, especially in fog. - Changing rooms are simple outdoor ones — no heating, no lockers, but covered. Protected from wind and rain, but cold in winter. - Water from 42 degrees in the upper bath to 39-40 in the lower mixed one. - No milk, but drink vending machines in the main building. - From the main building it's a 20-second walk to the rotenburo. - No showers (at least for higaeri). - Toilet in the main building. - From the baths, views of the river, mountains, and visible peaks. - In winter, free snow all around. - None of this matters because you can go into the river.