積善館
(せきぜんかん)
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Sekizenkan, that famous ryokan supposedly from Miyazaki's Spirited Away (or maybe not). A beautiful ryokan by a beautiful river — worth seeing at least from the outside. They have many baths, but for higaeri they only let you into Genroku no Yu, a bath in European style from the Taisho era. A very unexpected gap. Very atmospheric, clear water, from 42 to 46 degrees in different tubs. Sulfate-rich, packed with minerals — very pleasantly relaxing. Recommended.