Irina
The promised diversity in the chat. Took a trip to Shikoku for a couple of days, stayed in the Iya Valley, where the onsens are really great. Unfortunately, work treacherously ruined all plans, but I managed to visit a couple of places. Stayed here overnight. A mediocre hotel/almost-ryokan stuck in the Showa era, with a tatami room, kaiseki, karaoke room, and gacha machines. The onsen is on the 6th floor for women and the 5th for men, they don't switch by day. The onsen is absolutely amazing, pH 9.5 - I've never encountered such "soapy" water anywhere. Like actual soap, but without the old-timers' flakes. There's a large bath with bubbles, a rotenburo with a stunning mountain view (caught the sunrise - unbelievably beautiful, but no photos unfortunately due to crowds), the fence is only on the side facing the lobby, and at the right height where you can still glimpse the view until you sit down in the bath. There's a sauna and a small mizuburo (cold bath). They also have higaeri for 700 yen, highly recommend.