Ryokan. I was staying at Koubou Gurabaatei, but their bath cracked due to the earthquake. The owner seems to be the same for both (they're even decorated in the same style with the same level of service), so they drove us in a van to Yuraku to bathe (about 5 min drive). Gurabaatei served quite tasty food. A fun touch in both ryokans - a zone with a SNES and a set of cartridges. Was in the baths with a gender swap. In the first one (presumably M) the sauna also contained a hot bath. Otherwise the M/F zones were similar, the first slightly larger. Also really cool stone formations in the baths themselves - easy on the eyes and you can sit behind the stones. Water is clear, I don't really remember the smell, normal temperature. The composition chart was the same for M/F, so just one photo. Overall it was good, and I appreciated that they handled the cracked bath situation well.