Kinugawa Onsen, Hana no Yado, Matsuya

Matsuya sits right on the Kinugawa River, with a rock-built open-air bath that looks straight out over the gorge and an indoor bath behind glass walls with the same river view; both are split into separate baths for men and women. A private bath can be booked by the hour for families or couples, and a few guest rooms come with their own open-air tub. The spring is a mild alkaline water, clear and smooth on the skin. Inside, the ryokan has an old-fashioned, almost retro feel, with art and doll displays through its halls and lounge, and both rooms and lobby look straight onto the river and the hills around it.