Yamagataya Inn

So, another gem discovered in Hakone, in the quiet Ashinoyu area (last time I did higaeri at Ryokan Kinokuniya there). A true hardcore bath with kakenagashi sulfur water at low pH (below 4) in a closed-down ryokan. There's no staff at all — you put 500 yen in a jar at the entrance and go wash. Apparently it's written that men and women can share one bath, since you lock the door from inside anyway, so it's essentially kashikiri. There's a toilet and a hair dryer in the hall. No shower, no soap. Each of the M/F rooms has one bath with water around 40-41 degrees. Next to it is a barrel with slightly cooler water (also onsen water) to dilute if it's too hot. The water smells faintly of sulfur, is clear, with lots of yunohana (hot spring mineral deposits), and feels extremely pleasant. There's not a soul around. You can open the window and listen to birds sing — the experience is stunning, Twin Peaks style. Nothing written about tattoos, and since it's kashikiri, I'd say it's fine.