Kinokuniya Ryokan

Finally visited one of the few ryokans in Ashinoyu in Hakone — it's between the lake and the mountain, but high up, around 900m. Ryokan Kinokuniya — I'd wanted to come here for a long time since it's mega run-down, empty, and has a mysterious Showa atmosphere. The onsen turned out to be amazing too: the smell immediately makes it clear what you came for (sulfur). Besides sulfur, the water is alkaline, which gives an unusual effect like we love in Nozawa or in the Shizuoka mountains. One source is clear, the other is slightly cloudy with a huge amount of yu-no-hana (mineral deposits/flakes). The second source is around 35 degrees, and the tub gets the water kakenagashi straight from it — in summer it would be the best experience. The side of the tub is covered in a thick layer of sulfurous gunk that you could (but should you?) even spread on yourself. So you sit there in minerals looking at the mountains — the outdoor view is excellent. Strongly recommend for deep Hakone exploration. The higaeri schedule isn't every day — check the website. 1500 yen for entry, private baths separately at 2000 per person.