Wataya Besso

Stayed overnight with breakfast, no dinner. The hotel inside is very interesting, with beautiful river views (though the embankment is currently under renovation). Inside there's a very large bookstore, some shops, a cafe of the Pierre Herme type, but I didn't quite get the connection — they don't have pastries, only macarons, which weren't appealing. 2 onsen areas — one free for hotel guests, another paid (1100 yen — we didn't go). The onsen has a large indoor bath; photo from the website — I liked it. The outdoor bath is currently uninteresting due to the construction fence blocking the river view. There are very different room types. We booked the Onsenkyo room with futons. Don't recommend it — it's way too old, dusty smell, and mold in the bathroom. There are renovated rooms of other types. Otherwise a good hotel, breakfast buffet.