Yadoyunosato

614. Yadoyunosato, Tosenji Onsen, Totsukawa, Nara (pt.1) ★★★ Stayed overnight. No higaeri. Listed among the "secret" Hitou onsen. Managed to book on the 4th attempt: two bookings on the Hitou website got cancelled, no rooms available by phone on the dates I needed, but after a while availability reappeared and the booking was confirmed this time. Atmosphere-wise, really loved it. Great sense of isolation and remoteness, yet relatively civilized. It was a combo of deep countryside, a nice room with windows, a rotenburo with an incredible view, and warm slightly homey service. During my visit there was heavy rain, which amplified the feeling of isolation. Also, the river bank had eroded and the water turned brown, making the location feel even more remote from the world. The building itself is budget - I actually walked past it in the rain without realizing it was the ryokan. There's a hand-washing sink by the room entrance (toilet is in the room). But the room itself is very pleasant and decent-sized, with large windows overlooking the river and forest. The rotenburo is top-notch too. Staff barely speaks English and was worried about it, but we found common ground quickly. They follow service protocols but add personal warmth, creating a homey atmosphere. After dinner I asked for sports drinks, but staff only had lemonades - they drove out and brought me exactly the sports drinks I wanted, free of charge. After checkout they drove me to the next onsen nearby and gave me discount coupons for higaeri onsen in Totsukawa. Booked dinner and breakfast, kaiseki served in a private room. Dinner was generous, enjoyable, but the ingredient lineup was simple. They served a double kaiseki for one without any issues. 14.06.2025 15.06.2025

614. Yadoyunosato, Tosenji Onsen, Totsukawa, Nara (pt.2) ★★★ Baths: 1. Outdoor bath with a gorgeous view of the river and forest. Clear water with occasional small white mineral deposits. 42 degrees during the day/morning and 43 in the evening; there's a shallow zone near the wall. No shower. 2. Indoor bath. Clear water, slightly cloudy. Occasional small white mineral deposits and a subtle sulfurous smell. 43 degrees during the day/evening and 44 in the morning. Breathable inside. No shower. An amazing place by the combination of factors. This ryokan is, to me, a perfect example of hitou: remote with a deep countryside atmosphere, Japanese staff, top-notch onsen, borderline "budget." Highly recommended if the above appeals to you. 14.06.2025 15.06.2025

Double meals at Yadoyunosato (dinner and breakfast) 14.06.2025 15.06.2025