Nanki Tsukinose Onsen Botansou

A quiet 17-room lodge in the forest along the Kozagawa (古座川) in southern Wakayama, with one bath for each sex and no open-air one. The wall of windows onto the planted courtyard does a fair impression of it, though. The water is an alkaline simple spring at pH 9.7, soft and a little slippery, and next to the usual wash area there are walled-off shower booths with chairs, for anyone who cannot crouch at a low tap. The kitchen cooks what the valley gives it: wild boar, venison, eel from the river. The place sat closed for a while before reopening under a new operator, who also run an RV park on the grounds.