Lucy (Leetah) Wakizawa
So, Kawanaka Onsen aka Gunma Kawanaka Onsen aka Kawanaka Kadohan. Part of the trio of ancient beauty onsen. The water is said to have especially skin-beautifying properties. The ryokan itself is pleasantly old, full of details made with love and warmth. I'd wish more people would visit them. They were very welcoming to foreigners; we found no tattoo ban information publicly available. They didn't proactively ask about it either. Access: 3.5 hours by car from Tokyo, but public transport is also possible + 20 minutes on foot from the station, or you can call the ryokan for a pickup. Higaeri: none, overnight stay required. Rooms with small balconies and river views. No AC, but there's a heater. Baths: - Women's - Men's - Rotenburo Indoor baths felt just above 40 degrees. The rotenburo was 36-37 at best. Quite cool. But the view is truly beautiful, especially with autumn leaves (photos from the ryokan's FB, it was still green when we visited). There are hours when the rotenburo is women-only; otherwise it's mixed. No towels or swimwear allowed. As the staff put it - sorry, but we do things the old-fashioned way here. Food: breakfast and dinner, modest, tasty, see the photos. Nice touches (besides the water, food, views, and surrounding beauty): the hospitality and warmth of the owners. Plus they have a program with two other beauty onsen - if you visit all three within three years, you get a personalized wooden plaque and collectible soap. Water: kakenagashi, weakly alkaline. More details about the water on their Japanese website: https://www.kawanaka-kadohan.com/