Yunoshimakan

69. Yunoshimakan, Gero Onsen Stayed overnight. A nice old ryokan with history, located on a hill near a forest and Onsenji. The age of the ryokan is both a plus for authenticity and atmosphere, and a minus: where the AC or heating doesn't work there's a musty smell, and in the hallway you might encounter a spider, a small crab, or a forest stink bug. Food and service were very good. There was an electric heater in the room, the view from the small balcony was pleasant, and walking around the ryokan was atmospheric and enjoyable. The baths rotate between men and women: one indoor and one outdoor bath each. The sets are excellent and varied, yet very well balanced — nobody would feel shortchanged even if you skip the second set after the rotation. Water everywhere is hot and clear. The ryokan also has private baths available by free reservation. I didn't use them. If the quirks of an old building and occasional critters don't bother you, it's recommendable. If bugs are a concern, better to choose another place.