Maruya Ryokan Hijiori Onsen

Maruya Ryokan sits in Hijiori Onsen (肘折温泉), a small, unhurried hot-spring town in Yamagata that long served as a base for hikers heading to Mt. Gassan (月山). The building dates to the Meiji era and still has that quiet, worn-in atmosphere. Baths include cypress indoor baths that rotate between men and women, one with an open-air bath attached, plus a private reserved bath for families or couples. The top suite has its own in-room onsen. The water runs brown and is notably rich-feeling. Meals lean on mountain vegetables and local Yamagata produce, served in private dining rooms.