Kitago Onsen Ryokan Marushinso

A compact, older ryokan tucked into the forested hills near Nichinan, with both an indoor bath and a rotenburo (open-air bath). The water runs kakenagashi (kept flowing fresh, never recirculated), brownish in color and noticeably smooth on the skin. The indoor bath runs quite hot; the outdoor one is cooler and easier to soak in at length. The rotenburo is easy to miss if you don't know to look for it. Overnight guests get tatami rooms and seasonal kaiseki meals; the bath is also open for day visitors.