Yujimata Onsen Izumiya Ryokan

Izumiya dates its founding to 1534, and the spring has barely changed since: alkaline water at around 38°C rises straight up through the granite floor of the bath, so you can feel it bubbling under your feet. That cool-ish temperature makes long soaks easy. The mixed bath, Shika-no-Yu (鹿の湯, Deer Bath), is named for an old story of a wounded deer healing itself here. The ryokan is run by a small family and has the unhurried warmth to match.