Yukawa Onsen Shinseikan

A quiet riverside inn tucked into the mountains near the Geto Kogen ski area, with clear, lightly woody-scented water that guests say flows straight from the source without circulation. There are separate indoor baths for men and women and a large mixed-bathing main bath (daiyokujyo, 大浴場), the kind of old-fashioned ryokan where a couple runs the place, food comes to your tatami room, and the onsen takes the edge off a day on the slopes.