Okada Ryokan Warakutei

Warakutei is the ten-room annex of Okada Ryokan in Hirayu onsen, and every room comes with its own bath: a wood-scented indoor tub with an open-air one right beside it. Guests can also use the main building's shared bath, Yawaragi-no-yu (和の湯), free of charge, which adds a view rotenburo, an open-air kettle-shaped tub, an indoor bath, a jacuzzi and a waterfall bath. There are two reservable private baths as well: Fudo-no-yu (不動の湯), carved into a single boulder, and Yakushi-no-yu (薬師の湯), a half-indoor, half-open-air bath built around an iron pot and kept noticeably cooler than the rest, so you can settle in for a long soak while it slowly warms you through. Each of the two has its own one-person sauna. The water itself is a sulfur spring with a faint salty edge, drawn from four sources on the property. Dinners lean on Hida beef, and rooms look out over the mountains around Hirayu.