Pension Greenbell

Every bath at this small highland pension is outdoors: two rotenburo, called Boku-no-yu (ぼくの湯) and Nene-no-yu (ねねの湯) by regulars, filled with the milky white sulfur water of Norikura Kogen onsen. Each one is booked in its own time slot, so you get the tub to yourself or your own group rather than sharing with strangers. There's a washing area alongside the baths, but no indoor bath at all, so bathing here means stepping straight into the mountain air. It's a small, family-run pension above Matsumoto, easygoing rather than polished, in a quiet corner of the highlands that guests often remark on.