Bekkan Fujiya Ryokan

Fujiya's own bath is simple: one shared indoor tub each for men and women, looking out on a small garden that shifts with the seasons. There's no rotenburo or sauna in this building, but the water carries the place: a mild, salty spring kept flowing fresh from the source, warming enough that guests say you stay warm long after you've dried off. It's also considered good for toji (湯治), the old practice of settling in for a longer therapeutic stay, and is recommended locally for neuralgia and rheumatism. Overnight guests can also cross over to Azumaya (あづま屋), the affiliated main building next door, for its view rotenburo, free of charge. Fujiya itself is the plainer, more homely half of the pair: two stories of tatami rooms sized for everyone from a solo traveler to a large group, a big old clock presiding over the lobby, and a small gift corner by the front desk. It has also become something of a base for cyclists, with indoor bike racks, a simple repair kit, luggage storage, and a bath waiting for you after the ride.