Yunishigawa Onsen Kanai Ryokan

A mixed open-air bath (konyoku rotenburo, 混浴露天風呂) runs right alongside the river, fed by 100% free-flowing water from the inn's own source, alkaline and wonderfully smooth on the skin. The old wooden building shows its age in all the right ways: creaky floors, audible neighbors, character to spare. Meals are taken in a separate room and are well above expectations for a place this understated.