Osawa Onsen - Tojiya

The self-catering wing of the Osawa Onsen complex, you can cook your own meals in the communal kitchen, or eat at the small restaurant. Bathing options include the same mixed outdoor riverbank bath (Osawa no Yu) shared across the complex, plus several segregated indoor baths. The vibe is more hostel than ryokan: sparse rooms, communal everything, a wonderfully chaotic old building that regulars describe with open affection.