Seikansou

Every one of Seikansou's nine rooms has its own private open-air onsen bath with a hiba-wood tub, either on the room's terrace or, for four of the rooms, in a separate bath in a courtyard below the main building. The terrace baths look out at Yusaka-yama (湯坂山), pale green in spring and red with maple leaves in autumn; the courtyard rooms sit on the old Tokaido side and have no view. There's also a small shared indoor bath, split by gender and swapped between the two sides at midnight, plus a foot bath facing the mountain. The nine rooms are named after traditional Japanese colors, chosen years ago by senior monks at the nearby temple Soun-ji (早雲寺). Meals are kaiseki-style and served in the room rather than a restaurant, and the small bar is closed to non-guests. It's a quiet, small-scale ryokan built around long, private soaks rather than shared bathing halls.