Kiyotsukan

Kiyotsukan, Niigata (pt1) The only ryokan in Kiyotsukyo Gorge, famous for the Tunnel of Light, an art installation that draws busloads of tourists from Tokyo. Meanwhile, the ryokan is one of the oldest, and is part of Hitou (hidden hot springs). Everything is traditional, and the staff are all Japanese. More than that, almost all of them are the family, the owners. Meals are served only at 18:00, again, traditionally. The rooms are clean, beautiful, spacious, and there are only 11 rooms in the whole ryokan. The interior is full of old artifacts, photos of visitors from the Imperial Family, and so on. Literally a 5-minute walk to the entrance of that art tunnel. Guests do not need a reservation, but they do need a ticket. That is a huge benefit, since you can manage to slip in before the crowds and take great photos. 100% recommended.

Kiyotsukan, Niigata (pt2) Baths. In the ryokan building there is one indoor bath. It closes early, at 23:00. Hot, 42. There is a place to wash, there are hair dryers, and local drinking water. It smells of sulfur, and the water is clear. The outdoor bath is the reason people come here. A separate building right by the river. Reservations only for guests at check-in. Not by phone. The first reservation is free, the second is ¥300. Private bath by the river, with two baths from different (!) sources, one of them cool. 41 and 38. There is nowhere to wash, so you need to go to the indoor bath beforehand. A unique place in every sense.

Kiyotsukan, Niigata (pt3) Food. Very tasty kaiseki with an emphasis on local mountain herbs and vegetables. Nothing luxurious, just tasty and varied, exactly as it should be. Naturally, divine Niigata rice. Service, like visiting your grandmother at her country house, they feed and take care of you wholeheartedly, and try to give you more rice.