Kiyotsukan

The only ryokan in Kiyotsukyō Gorge, famous for the Tunnel of Light, an art installation that tourists are bused in from Tokyo to see. Meanwhile, the ryokan is one of the oldest, and is part of Hitō (hidden hot springs). Everything is traditional, and the staff are Japanese only. More than that, almost everyone there is family, the owners. Dinner is only at 18:00, again, traditionally. The rooms are clean, beautiful, spacious, and there are only 11 in the whole ryokan. The interior is full of old artifacts, photos of visitors from the Imperial Family, and so on. The entrance to that same art tunnel is literally 5 minutes away. Guests do not need a reservation, but they do need a ticket. That is a huge benefit, because you can manage to pop in before the crowds and take great photos. 100% recommended.

Baths. In the ryokan building there is one indoor bath. It closes early at 23:00. Hot, 42. There is a place to wash, there are hair dryers, local drinking water. It smells of sulfur, clear. The outdoor bath is the reason people come here. A separate building right by the river. Reservations only for guests at check-in. Not by phone. The first reservation is free, the second is ¥300. Kashikiri, by the river, with two baths from different (!) sources, one of them cool. 41 and 38. There is nowhere to wash, so you need to go inside beforehand to the indoor bath. A unique place in every sense.

Food. A very tasty kaiseki with an emphasis on local mountain herbs and vegetables. Nothing luxurious, just tasty and varied, exactly as it should be. Of course, the divine Niigata rice. The service is like visiting your grandmother at her dacha, they feed you and take care of you wholeheartedly, and try to give you more rice.