Uosho

Uosho is a ryokan in Iwaki Yumoto Onsen (いわき湯本温泉) with separate men's and women's baths filled with fresh, unrecirculated sulfur water. The men's bath is on the top floor with a good view, the women's bath is small, and when it gets busy the two swap on a schedule. There is also a private bath (kashikiri, 貸切風呂) for two or three people, free for guests, with no booking: you lock it from inside when it is empty, and the water keeps running through the night. The sulfur discolors the fixtures and tarnishes silver, so take jewelry off. Outside the baths, the place is known for its seafood meals, a slightly Showa-era exterior and a renovated interior that reviewers call clean, with friendly staff.