San'in Yumura Onsen Yusen no Yado Yuamu

This ryokan runs two separate baths, Yama no Yu and Kawa no Yu, each pairing an indoor tub with an open-air one and a low-temperature sauna. They swap between men and women every morning and evening, so a single night covers both. Kawa no Yu sits along the Haruki River, close enough that you can hear the water from the bath. The spring water here is gentle on the skin and known locally for warming you through. Some guest rooms also come with their own open-air or semi-open-air bath. The inn does not take day-use bathers, so the baths stay for guests only.