Tsuruya

Tsuruya is a small, plain ryokan in Yunokami Onsen, in a part of town where old inns and minshuku crowd along narrow streets. The indoor bath is fairly roomy. The water is clear, without color or smell, and feels hot when you first get in, then settles into something gentle. The building shows its age, but guests mention the owners' easy-going welcome and the cooking, which leans on local mountain vegetables and mushrooms.