Hoshinoi

A plain, unfussy ryokan in Yunokami onsen in Shimogo, Fukushima. The spring water feels soft and slightly slippery on the skin, and guests say the morning bath, with mountains and sky overhead, is the best time to go in. Rooms are simple, and the bathrooms are shared. The inn calls itself Magokoro no Yado (まごころの宿, the inn of sincere hospitality), and guests mention the staff as much as the bath. Meals are cooked by hand with Aizu ingredients such as mountain vegetables, fish and basashi (horse sashimi). The inn also runs a night walk to the old post town of Ouchi-juku, led by the owner, which guests tend to remember longer than the room.