Goshiki no Yu Ryokan

A mountain ryokan up the Matsukawa gorge in Takayama village, Nagano, long known as a lamp-lit hideaway. The baths are indoor, with separate men's and women's rooms and a kashikiri (貸切風呂) private bath that staying guests can use at no charge. The spring runs through the tubs fresh as kakenagashi, smells of sulfur, and is said to shift color with the weather, from milky white to blue to deep green. The water can also be drunk. The open-air bath has been closed since a typhoon in 2019 cut the flow of the source, so come for the indoor baths, the gorge view from the rooms and the quiet.