Obonai Ryokan

Obonai Ryokan is a modest, unpretentious inn at Kindaichi Onsen, with one large communal bath split into a men's side, Samurai-no-yu (侍の湯), and a women's side, Okame-no-yu (おかめの湯). The water comes from Tamanoyu (玉の湯), one of several sources at Kindaichi Onsen, tapped some 380 years ago. It's plain and gentle, and leaves the skin feeling smooth. The older wing of the building dates to the early Showa era, and the inn wears its age well: worn woodwork, a retro reading room, even a case of taxidermy along the halls. Kindaichi Onsen is known as the home of the zashiki-warashi (座敷わらし), a household spirit from local legend, and guests here often come hoping for a glimpse of one. The proprietress runs a warm, talkative front desk that regulars say is as much the draw as the bath itself.