湯西川温泉 上屋敷 平の高房

The inn draws on its own spring for several baths: a large roofless outdoor bath open to the sky, a smaller indoor-outdoor pair named after an old book, and two free outdoor baths that guests can reserve for a private soak after check-in. A few room types add their own open-air tub, and the Boukyotei annex rooms come with a private sauna and cold plunge. The water is clear, faintly alkaline and smooth on the skin, kept flowing fresh from the source. Built in a fortress-like wooden style on a steep hillside (expect a lot of stairs), the ryokan takes its name from Taira no Takafusa, one of the Heike clan retainers said to have fled here after the clan's defeat and opened the hot spring. It's a member of the association of secluded hot-spring inns (Hitou wo Mamoru Kai, 秘湯を守る会). Dinner is cooked over an irori hearth in the dining hall, river fish and mountain vegetables grilled at the table. Stay-only, no day-use bathing.