Yunosawa Onsen Toki-no-yado Sumire

Toki no Yado Sumire is a small ryokan in Yunosawa Onsen, on a quiet stretch outside Yonezawa. There are two indoor baths that swap between men and women through the day, plus two private open-air baths by the stream that guests can use anytime, no reservation needed. The spring is an old one, said to have been ranked among Japan's noted hot springs before the Genroku era, roughly 300 years ago, and it keeps you warm well after you get out. The inn takes exactly two adults per room, no solo travelers and no groups, so it runs slow and quiet: no TV or clock in the rooms, and dinner built around a Yonezawa beef kaiseki course. A reservation-only lunch plan lets day visitors try the beef and the indoor bath without staying overnight.