Shirataka Onsen Shirataka-so

Shirataka-so is a small, owner-run onsen that opens its bath to day visitors and also takes overnight guests by reservation. Men and women each have a modest indoor tub, an oval basin sized for two or three people. The water is colorless, with at most a faint hint of sulfur, soft on the skin, and it warms you gradually right down to your fingers and toes, the heat lingering well after you step out. The couple who run it keep it well: the changing rooms have been freshly redone and smell of wood, and the small lobby has a quiet, homey feel, with mellow music playing and a corner of books to browse.