Karamatsu Sanso – Tobei Onsen

A small ryokan in the hills of Daisen, Akita, that also takes day visitors (higaeri nyuyoku, 日帰り入浴). Besides the indoor bath there is an open-air bath with a view, and a kamafuro (釜風呂), a steam bath that feels like a mist sauna. The inn is known for its zashiki-warashi (座敷わらし), a child spirit said to live in one of the houses, and a friendly Akita dog greets people at the entrance. It is plain and homely rather than polished, with no TV, and the overnight stay comes with generous country meals.