Suirin-tei

Suirin-tei is a small ryokan at the far end of Bandai-Atami onsen town. The baths are an indoor one and an outdoor one, and the outdoor side also has a milder, lukewarm herbal bath. There is also a radium ganbanyoku (岩盤浴, heated stone-bed bathing) where you can borrow a mat and a bamboo pillow. The building is old and partly renovated, with a retro feel, and the staff are warm in an unhurried way. It suits people who want to slow down rather than tick things off.