Yamaakari

Yamaakari is a ryokan in Furuyu onsen, upstream on the Kase river in Saga. Every detached guest room has its own private open-air bath, hinoki wood or pottery, so you can soak on your own schedule. The shared bathhouse has a rock-lined indoor bath and a half open-air stone bath, with the men's and women's sides swapping through the day. The water is smooth and faintly slippery on the skin. Locals call it nuruyu (ぬる湯): it runs mild rather than hot, so guests settle in for a long soak rather than a quick one. Rooms look out over the river or the surrounding mountains, and there's a shared garden. Day-use bathing is offered at set hours.